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Stargazing from Pico de las Nieves, in Gran Canaria, Spain.

Introduction to stargazing in the Canary Islands

Unique astronomy conditions

The Canary Islands, with their minimal light pollution and clear skies, are a haven for stargazers, offering clear views of the night sky with minimal interference. Additionally, their unique combination of dry climate and clean air further contributes to excellent stargazing conditions. The islands’ location in the Atlantic Ocean provides a perfect setting for astronomical observations.
But beyond breathtaking celestial views, these volcanic islands hold a deeper connection to the cosmos — a connection rooted in the beliefs of the pre-Hispanic Indigenous populations, the Guanches.
This guide celebrates “slow tourism”, encouraging a mindful exploration of the Canaries' unique astronomical heritage, alongside modern stargazing experiences. So, let's adjust our gaze upwards, and embark on a celestial adventure through these charming islands.

Best islands for stargazing

Tenerife and La Palma: top stargazing destinations

Tenerife: Teide National Park. With an altitude of 3,715 meters, Mount Teide constitutes the highest point in Spain and the highest point above sea level in the islands of the Atlantic. A renowned dark sky reserve with spectacular starry skies, the Park is home to the Teide Observatory, founded in 1964 (as part of the IAC, Instituto Astrofísico de Canarias) with a special focus on solar observations and robotic astronomy.
La Palma: Roque de los Muchachos Observatory.
Gran Canaria: Pico de las Nieves, Roque Nublo and Tamadaba Natural Park.
Fuerteventura: Pico de la Zarza.
El Hierro: Faro de Punta de la Orchilla, in the municipality of El Pinar, the westest point in Spain. Notably, this location was taken as a reference to establish the prime meridian in the XVII century, marking a geographical line between the Old and the New World. When approaching the Canary Islands, sailors would spot the dangerous coast of Orchilla in the dark and continue on to the Maspalomas lighthouse (in function since 1890), in the south-western coast of Gran Canaria. In fact, the construction of El Hierro's 132 m high octagonal tower took place between 1926 and 1930. It was only in 1885, following Washington, D.C.'s International Meridian Conference, that the Greenwich Meridian took over becoming the prime meridian as we know it today.

Stargazing experiences in the Islas Canarias

Miradores: These are generally easier viewpoints to access, involving minimal elevation gain. They are ideal for casual stargazers — examples include the Mirador Llanos del Jable, in Tenerife, and the Mirador del Roque de los Muchachos, in La Palma.
Higher ascents: Located at higher elevations, actual trails might mean steeper ascents but result in a more rewarding experience. Guided tours are an extremely valid and safe option in this realm.

Stargazing sessions in La Palma

Day hike and visit to the Observatorio Astrofísico of La Palma

La Palma, along with Tenerife, has been protected by the Sky Law issued by the Spanish government in 1988. The law aims to contain light pollution, regulating outdoor lighting. Secondly, it establishes the levels of electromagnetic radiation, Finally, it controls atmospheric contamination in the surroundings of the IAC observatories, and regulates airline routes over the same.
La Palma was the first Starlight Reserve in the world to be ever recognised as such. Additionally, on 20 April 2007, La Palma hosted the signing of the Declaration in Defence of the Night Sky and the Right to Starlight (AKA La Palma Starlight Declaration).

The GR 131 Roque de los Muchachos-Espigón del Roque-Pico Fuente Nueva-Roque Muchachos trail is a fairly undemanding trail to the most elevated point of the island, from where we can appreciate views of the close-by Tenerife, El Hierro and La Gomera. Seeing the coastlines of neighbouring islands always is such a beautiful surprise, and even more when spotting the Teide, with its peak reminding of a perfectly shaped profile of a woman's breast, giving the whole island the appearance of an elongated body. This a great place from where to enjoy the sunrise or the sunset.

GR 131 Roque de los Muchachos-Espigón del Roque-Pico Fuente Nueva-Roque Muchachos trail in La Palma, by Fernando99 / fer_trekking Fernando99, on wikiloc.

Coming from Santa Cruz de la Palma via the LP4 and then, from the Barrio de Hoya Grande in Garafía via the LP1, we reach the Astronomic Observatory by car. Notably, we can receive a morning guided tour of the Observatorio and visit 3 professional telescopes, by reserving our spot. NB: this very last part of the road is closed at night.
Thus, we park at the last car park from the Roque de los Muchachos to start our loop trail. With a length of 4,26 km and a gradient of +269 m, this hike requires 2.15 hours in total. The excursion runs along the ridge of the Caldera de Taburiente, with a visit to the Mirador del Espigón del Roque and to the Pico Fuente Nueva. At all times, we will have the caldera on one side and the astronomical observatory (with its several telescopes) and the sea on the other.
The Roque de los Muchachos closes the northern part of the Caldera de Taburiente. Its name comes from the series of rocks, resembling a group of boys. It is the highest point on the island of La Palma. It reaches an altitude of 2,426 m above sea level, making it the second highest mountain in the archipelago, after the Teide.
This sendero accounts for a segment of the famous GR 131, commonly known as El Bastón (the walking stick). With a length of approximately 74 km, El Bastón can be completed in 24 hours. It is the result of the union of 2 routes: the Ruta de los Volcanes, between El Pilar refuge and the Salinas de Fuencaliente; and the Ruta de la Crestería in the Caldera de Taburiente National Park, from the Roque de los Muchachos to the Puerto de Tazacorte. As just mentioned, the GR 131 eventually dives into the sea in the Puerto de Tazacorte, connecting the rest of the Canary Islands, as per the more than 5,000-kilometre-long cross-Europe E7 trail (promoted by the European Ramblers' Association).

When going for a hike during the day:

Sun rays are quite unforgiving at these heights — Do not forget to use sunscreen and to protect with a cap or a bandana.
Wear adequate shoes — either trekking or sports shoes.
Considering the thermic excursion when approaching the roque, bring along a warm sweater. Wear several layers, if hiking in colder months, between December and March.
Stay hydrated and reintegrate your mineral salts (electrolytes powder is a very practical solution).

Planning your stargazing trip

What to expect and how to prepare

Take advantage of the Canary Islands’ unique astronomy conditions to gain astronomical knowledge and enjoy the dark skies.
Be prepared for cooler temperatures at higher elevations, especially in Teide National Park.
Wear sturdy hiking shoes and comfortable clothing,
Bear in mind that night trekking is not void of risks — guided excursions are to be preferred, especially when you are not a local.
Start the hike at dusk or on a full moon, to help your vision adapt to night mode, or have less of a stark transition.
Do not go solo — 4 is the ideal group size to keep it contained and safe. And, stick to designated trails.
Select an easier track that you know very well.
Consult the weather forecast beforehand. Always check weather conditions before embarking on a night hike. Clear skies are essential for stargazing.
Wisely prepare your backpack. Not to forget: First aid kit (including thermal blanket, with golden foil); Fully charged mobile phone (with a power bank); Anorak; Head light; An old-school, reliable map; Water, hot drinks, snacks (such as dry fruits, energy bars, dark chocolate).

Guided stargazing excursions in La Palma

Stargazing viewpoints and trails in La Palma, Spain, by visitlapalma.es.

Ruta de la Luna Llena: This pathway unfolds through the Parque Natural de Cumbre Vieja. We owe its name to the lunar landscape we cross. Given its length — 20.5 km — it requires a good amount of time.
Ruta del Sol: The trail extends from the Volcán de San Antonio to the faro and the salinas de Fuencaliente. Taking about 2 hours in total, it will allow us to enjoy a quite unique experience during the solstices and the equinoxes, with the Sun dramatically popping up at specific points.
Ruta de las Estrellas: This astronomic ruta starts at the Pico de la Cruz and ends up reaching the Refugio de El Pilar. This is a considerably long hike, counting 35 km, demanding for a higher level of fitness. We suggest a strategic night stay at the refugio Punta de Los Roques, an archeo-astronomic vantage point on the over 200 Awara graffiti, pointing at the position of the Sun at dawn on the occasion of the winter solstice.

Pico de las Nieves, in Gran Canaria: a breathtaking starry landscape, though not for solitude seekers

We reach Pico de las Nieves with daylight. The atmosphere is dominated by the haunting scent of the canary pine trees, with their fire-resistant barks. What an idyllic place, from where we can observe the Roque Nublo and look as far as the dunes of Maspalomas!We decide to return at night for a stargazing experience and find a multitude of cars stressfully arriving and departing — who is eating sushi to some read wine inside the car; who does not seem to be able to switch off the headlights or the music; and again, who talks very loudly. I am briefly using an app to scan the sky above and all around to identify the major stars of the night. The time to zip up my anorak that I am wearing on top of several layers of clothing, that we decide to leave the highest point in the island. Despite the absolutely breathtaking sky, definitely not the solitary, contemplative stargazing session we imagined while meditatively sipping some hot herbal tea.

Senderismo astronómico in Gran Canaria

Llanos de la Pez circular trail: It is a particularly low difficulty path with a gradient of +122 m. It will take us 2 hours in total to cover its 5.5 km.We park along the dirt road to Campamento El Garañón (coordinates: 27°58'18.6"N 15°35'09.0”W). We start at the Área Recreativa de Llanos de la Pez, pass by the Refugio de Montaña Díaz Bertrana in the direction of La Culata, to turn right and begin the way back via Bailico and El Garañón.

Llanos de la Pez circular trail in Gran Canaria, by Jon Castellano, on wikiloc.

Circular trail to Roque Nublo: The hike to the Roque Nublo definitely is a classic in Gran Canaria. The volcanic monolith of the Roque Nublo, situated on top of the Caldera de Tejeda, probably reached 3,000 m above sea level when it was first formed. The heavy erosion shaped its singular aspect, and reduced his height to 1,813 m.
Leaving the town of Ayacata behind us, we park at La Goleta. Please note that the parking usually gets full early. It takes 2.40 hours to cover this fairly easy 6.25 km, with a gradient of +386 m. Thus, we begin by climbing up an easy slope to the Degollada del Nublo, to discover another monolith, El Fraile. Once in the Degollada, we turn right, towards the Tablón (i.e. the dry plain in front of the Roque Nublo), where the Roca de la Rana and the Roque Nublo are located. It is preferable to go around the east side of the base of the Roque Nublo, as it is the least dangerous.

Circular trail to Roque Nublo in Gran Canaria, by Baler, on wikiloc.

We commence our wayback passing by the Tablón to the Degollada del Nublo. We can now nicely go down the Degollada del Nublo in the direction of the crossroads of the Aserrador without reaching it, and turn right at the crossroads on the west side of the Roque Nublo. This is a good opportunity to have a sneak peek of the cliff of La Fogalera. We can finally go around the east face of the Nublo massif.

The Tamadaba circular trail: With its 7,500 hectares, the Tamadaba Natural Park stretches from summit to coast, within an area declared by UNESCO a Biosphere Reserve in 2015. We get to the highest point of the pine grove, where the Pico de la Bandera rises up to 1,444 m above sea level, from where, with limpid sky, we can see Tenerife (and its Teide), La Gomera, the Roque Nublo, the Roque Bentayga, the Presa de Las Hoyas, and beyond.

Tamadaba circular trail in Gran Canaria, by spadher, on wikiloc.

This hike begins at the Casa Forestal de Tamadaba, taking us to the Degollada del Humo, the Pico de la Bandera, the Lomo del Bicho, the Montaña del Brezo, the Lomo del Zapatero, and back. This is not a complex excursion: this circular hike is 7.70 km long with a gradient of 308 m, requiring 3.25 hours. It runs along the asphalted road at first, then along a track with old asphalt, and throughout different paths later on. At some points, it is not well defined and can get a bit cross-country.

Finding the right hike:

Join a guided stargazing night hike in Tamadaba Natural Park for a network of trails catering to different experience levels.
This is a great option for first-time visitors or those seeking a safe and informative experience. Local guides can lead you to the best stargazing spots and share their knowledge of the park's astronomy and Guanche heritage.
Shorter, easier trails provide for moderate inclines and are suitable for most hikers. They ensure safety and allow ample time for stargazing at the designated locations.

The highest peak in Fuerteventura

The PR FV-54 trail: Morro Jable - Pico de la Zarza is a trail with a moderate difficulty level, leading to the highest point in the island. It is a 15.55 km-long hike with a gradient of +840 m, that requires 5 hours in total (to come and go). Unfortunately, it is not a circular path.
Coming from the seafront walk between Morro Jable and Piedras Caídas, we pass under the FV2 road and begin the ascent to the Pico de La Zarza. The route is surrounded by imposing mountain massifs from the Parque Natural de Jandía, namely the Morro de Mungía to the west and the Cuchillo del Ciervo to the east. The summit of the Pico de la Zarza at 807 m above sea level, constitutes an excellent viewpoint overlooking the coasts of Cofete and the surrounding mountains, within the Jandía Natural Park.

PR FV-54 trail: Morro Jable - Pico de la Zarza trail in Fuerteventura, by senderosnorberto, on wikiloc.

An array of guided and unguided excursions, and miradores in Fuerteventura:

Guided stargazing experiences are also available in the north — either in Los Molinos or Dunas de Corralejo — and in the south of the island — especially in Pozo Negro — as well as custom-made ones.
On the west coast of Fuerteventura, near the town of Betancuria, the natural viewpoint of Morro Velosa is positioned on the Tegú Mountain at 669 metres. It offers fantastic views with virtually no light contamination and can comfortably be reached by car. The Sisacumbre viewpoint in the south of Fuerteventura, outside the town of Pájara, equally offers a great observation point on Fuerteventura’s night skies.
While, in the municipality of Puerto del Rosario, Tefía Astronomic Observatory counts on the presence of a telescope. However, it is not exactly clear how to gain access to it, if not by contacting the local administration or possibly the astronomy enthusiasts of the Agrupación Astronómica de Furteventura.
Notably, the town holds an infamous past from one of the darkest chapters of Spanish history, when it hosted the Colonia Agrícola Penitenciaria de Tefía at the time of the Francoist Dictatorship. As part of 1933 Ley de Lagos y Maleantes (“the law of Vagrants and Crooks”), this concentration camp served as a re-education facility for members of the LGBTQIA+ community and for political opponents, between 1954 and 1966. Many lost their lives working in the quarry (the Cantera Montaña Bermeja), and due to the intense conditions of forced labour, physical violence and malnourishment.

Connecting with the ancient skies: the Guanches and the cosmos

Unveiling the astronomical secrets of ancient structures: Risco Caído and Tamadaba

We visit the collections of the Museo Canario in Las Palmas de Gran Canaria with immense interest and curiosity. Still, we find the gallery space on the first floor, with the old-style vitrines stacked with skulls and skeletons from the Aboriginal populations, quite disturbing. The decision to maintain the original layout must have prevailed for documentary purposes with regard to the mansion of Dr Gregorio Chil y Naranjo, the father of the archeology and anthropology studies in the island. We in fact observe a photograph portraying him, in the company of fellow scholars from his time, in this exact setting.Notably, the Museum’s website gives us insights into past theories: “the discovery of Cro-Magnon man added up to the interest in the past of the island populations, since certain physical features led to the erroneous belief in a close relationship between the ancient Canary Islanders and the Palaeolithic Europeans. Although this perception is now largely outdated, the fact is that it had a decisive influence on the forging of our institution.”As impactful and difficult to forget they could be, these pieces of evidence exemplify the Natives’ funerary practices and some of the acts of violence they suffered (in particular, violent deaths) at the hands of the Hispanic colonisers.

Following an afternoon in the casco histórico de Vegueta — which bears an uncanny resemblance to the colonial architecture overseas — we decide to dig into the UNESCO Cultural Landscape of the Risco Caído and the Montañas Sagradas the following day, embarking on an extensive journey through innumerable hairpin turns and narrow mountain roads to get around walls of red rock.
As the exuberant nature has taken over the path to Risco Caído, we desist to make it to the ancient astronomical observatory. The Centro de Interpretación del Paisaje Cultural de Risco Caído y Montañas Sagradas along with the relevant Google Arts & Culture material available online, reveals what this dome structure looks like and its ritual importance. The cave N. 6 — located in Artenara, at the left margin of the Barranco Hondo — is described as a lunisolar temple that functioned as a prehistoric calendar, allowing the Guanches to know when to seminate and when to harvest. On the occasion of the summer solstice (the longest day with the shortest night of the year), the first light of the day filters through a man-made opening, that illuminates the round walls and activates the propitiatory graffiti to fertility representing the female pubic triangle. A similar game of light occurs with the full Moon on the winter solstice.

The Azulejos de Veneguera, in Gran Canaria, Spain.

The Guanches¹ had interrogated the skies to conduct their agricultural activities, leaving traces of their passage to the future generations. The first inhabitants of the Canary archipelago were some Amazigh (same as Imazighen/Berber) communities, who had crossed the Ocean and reached these lands.The Montañas Sagradas where the Amazigh people resided in Gran Canaria, extend for some 18,000 hectares between the municipalities Artenara, Tejeda, Agaete and Gáldar. Interestingly enough, they recognised their authentic, archeological value in 1996 and understood the peculiarity of Risco Caído only in 2009. The archeologist Julio Cuenca explains that the Guanches relied on different sacred routes that converged at the Caldera de Tejeda, with its Roque Bentayga.
Prof. Juan Antonio Belmonte, the principal researcher of the Archaeoastronomy project at the Instituto de Astrofísica de Canarias, informs us that research has been conducted over the last 3 decades with regard to the Cuatro Puertas (AKA Montaña Bermeja), the Llanos de Gamona and the Almogarén² de Montaña Santidad. And yet, the most interesting phenomena was observed in Risco Caído. According to Juan Manuel Caballero Suárez, professor at the Señales y Comunicaciones department at the Universidad de Las Palmas de Gran Canaria (ULPGC), other key marcadores astronómicos can be found in the Montaña de Tauro (alias Castillete de Tabaibale); the Cuevas de La Angostura (with its equinoctial illumination) and the Cueva de Tara.
Similarly, in the Cañadas del Teide, in Tenerife, the Guanches lived in the small mountain valleys at least since the V century AD and continued doing so to protect themselves from the Spanish conquistadores after 1496, until far into the XVII century. They extracted water and snow, and exploited plants and minerals, like obsidian and basalt. Extractive and commercial activities at large were eventually forbidden with the creation of the Teide National Park in 1954, following some initial archeological investigations. While, the Carta Arqueológica del Parque Nacional has been developed starting from 1980. The Dirección General de Patrimonio Cultural del Gobierno de Canarias, in collaboration with the Universidad de La Laguna (ULL), realised various archeological studies in this location, mapping the routes that the Guanche populations from the southeast of Tenerife used to access the Cañadas on the north side of the island. The archeological fieldwork initiated in 2014 will proceed, as per the project of the Red de Parques Nacionales.

Slow tourism practices for a sustainable stargazing experience

Traveling with a sustainable mindset

By combining guided tours and day hikes, we can gain a comprehensive understanding of the Canary Islands' rich astronomical heritage, both ancient and modern. We think it is important to embrace slow tourism principles to minimise our environmental impact while maximizing our astronomical experience. Many islands offer guided night tours led by certified local astronomers. These tours often take place in designated stargazing zones with minimal light interference, allowing for unobstructed views of the night sky.We encourage you to join a night hike through a natural park to learn more about the constellations. For a deeper scientific perspective, consider visiting IAC astronomic observatories, to learn about the cutting-edge scientific work conducted on the islands.

4 very good reasons to opt for responsible tourism:

It fosters a deeper appreciation for a destination's unique character.
Travelers have the opportunity to engage with local communities, learn about their traditions, and support local businesses while minimising waste.
This fosters mutual respect and understanding, ensuring tourism does not become a burden on local resources.
Trade breakneck sightseeing for savouring the moment. You might just surprise yourself with how much richer and more meaningful your travels can get.

View of the pine grove, the Roque Nublo and the Teide from Pico de las Nieves, in Gran Canaria, Spain.

¹ Guanches: We have referred to them as Mahos in Dunas de Corralejo, Furteventura: more than a simple beach; however, this terms is not widely used.² Almogarén: It is a term still in use in the toponymy of Gran Canaria, used to refer to certain places where the Aboriginal populations carried out religious practices.

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Top stargazing Canary Islands: a guide to celestial wonders