Golden Ducat daffodils; Replete double daffodils; Butter & Eggs daffodils; Low growing Veronica.
Elevate your gardening experience with flower bulbs from Holland
Following long winter months in Luxembourg and few warmer, sun-kissed days, I strongly wished to bring some colour in the apartment. I do have a good amount of green-leaf plants, but little flowers, except for a couple orchids, a Christmas-survivor pollentia and a newly purchased tillandsia Andres & Antonio hybrid. On the other hand, I had long planned to acquire a pricy amaryllis bulb from the charming shop at Schiphol Airport, but they had run out the last time I passed.
I selected 4 Dutch bulbs I can grow indoors relatively easily, as a way to bring some colour and fragrance in my home. At the same time, I will be reducing my environmental footprint by ditching cut flowers.
Getting my hands dirty with soil when creating my very own potting mix and caring for a plant from bulb to flower, brings about a quite special feeling if you ask me.
There is still in time to buy the finest flower bulbs for spring and summer. My 4 suggestions will be: jumbo amaryllis, freesia, peony, and tuberose.
Jumbo Pink tulips.
Expertly sourced from the Netherlands: their history
The Netherlands' obsession with flower bulbs goes back to the 16th century when the ambassador Ogier Ghiselin Busbecq(1522-1592) sent tulip bulbs from Suleiman the Magnificent's Ottoman Empire back to Vienna.Tulips actually originated in Central Asia. Wild tulips paint the landscape of the mountainous regions of eastern and central Turkey, carpeting valleys and hillsides. In Iran (formerly Persia), tulips were revered in art and poetry for centuries — wild varieties can still be found in some regions. Wild tulips also grace the landscapes of Afghanistan, Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, Tajikistan, Turkmenistan, and Uzbekistan, where tulips continue being celebrated in festivals and traditional crafts.
By the 17th century, the Netherlands became a hub for the cultivation of the highest quality flower bulbs. The region between Haarlem and Leiden proved ideal, with its fertile soil carefully preserving the bulbs throughout the fall and the winter frost. The highly accurate depictions of “broken” tulips by Ambrosius Bosschaert (1573-1621) and Balthasar van der Ast (1610-1670) from the Dutch Golden Age certainly capture the beauty of the flowers. At the same time, they serve as a historical record of the work of Dutch bulb farmers, who achieved a whole spectrum of colour variations and textures through selective breeding and rare mutations.
Today, the Netherlands remains a global leader in bulb production, offering a great assortment of flower bulbs.
Furthermore, the Skagit Valley region, with its Skagit Valley Tulip Festival in Washington State, confirms as the leading tulip and spring-flowering bulbs producer in the USA. Additionally, both Oregon and New Jersey have some flower bulb farms. Nonetheless, Oregon is mostly known for annual flower seeds.
Interestingly, these nurseries often choose shipping bulbs from Dutch growers to the USA.
Orange Cassini tulips.
Spring is for planting: indoor gardening at its best
Here follows my selection of flower bulbs to practically plant in pots indoors, along with a few tips:
- Jumbo amaryllis: With its extra-long stems and dramatic blooms in bold reds, whites, pink variations or crimson and white stripes, amaryllis is relatively unscented. The plant we commonly call “amaryllis” in the genus Hippeastrum is native of tropical and subtropical regions in Eastern Brazil and the Andes (Peru, Bolivia and Argentina), yet some species occur even in Mexico and the West Indies. There are about 90 species, yet most modern commercial hybrids originate from only 6 species.
Planting: Let's find a terracotta pot with drainage holes with a pot saucer, just large enough to accommodate a bulb with its long roots. Now, we can fill it with a well-draining organic potting mix — I used new indoor soil rich in fertilisers, peat moss and other nutrients. Amaryllis cultivation is fairly convenient, as it certainly is less picky in terms of soil composition than other flower bulbs. I chose a gorgeous dark red, velvety flower, a Benfica amaryllis, and left about a third of the bulb peeking out above the soil when planting. Always water after planting, to help the roots grow into the new soil.
Growing: I placed my pot in a bright location with indirect sunlight, and water moderately. NB: Never overwater bulbs, as they might rot into the ground leading to no sprouts. I also positioned a bamboo stick before the root system fully develops, to serve as a support for the plant. Amaryllis flowers until the end of June — the bloom typically lasts about 3 weeks. It takes 7 to 10 weeks to flower.
After bloom: Once the flower fades, we can cut it off to prevent seed formation. We can gradually reduce watering and let the foliage die back naturally. Our amaryllis should surprise us with another bloom next year! There is no need to store the bulb in a cool, dark place for a few months and repot it. - Freesia: These beauties come in a variety of colours — yellow, orange, pink, purple (referred as “blue”), red, and white. But the true charm of freesia lies in their spicy fragrance. Each colour means different volatile notes: yellow freesia has a fresh citrus scent; orange freesia a strong yet sweet fragrance; pink freesia a sweet aroma; purple freesia a sweet, airy scent; red freesia peppercorn notes; and white freesia is possibly the most peppery and fragrant.
Freesias belong to the Iridaceae family. There are 16 species endemic to South Africa, and especially the southern Western Cape. Today, freesia is widely cultivated in the Netherlands.
Planting: As freesias prefer soil that drains well, I combined fresh potting soil rich in organic matter with 30% of perlite (including a perlite substratum). The corms — yes, technically, they are not bulbs but corms, i.e. enlarged underground stems — should be planted 2.5 cm deep with the pointed end facing up; about 2-5 cm apart. I densely planted 25 corms in a wide, circular container to obtain a bouquet-like, full head of scent of mixed double freesias. Freesias have a long tap root, so I chose a relatively tall pot.
Growing: I placed my pot in a part shade location. I watered sparingly until they sprouted. Then, I watered consistently, keeping the soil lightly moist. We can use canes or ideally round supports to keep the stems upright as they grow. Freesias flower from June to September. They are in bloom about 4 months after planting.
After bloom: Once the plant has its flower removed, we can continue fertilising until the leaves will turn yellow. At that point, we can trim the plant and stop watering. We may store the freesia in a cool, dark location during dormancy until the fall or the winter begins. Tender perennial bulbs should be treated this way, to guarantee they stay in a good condition. - Peony: We can look for “cut flower” peonies that are suitable for the confined space of a pot. These types are specifically bred to grow more compact, bushier and with stronger stems. Their root structure, overall plant size, and flowering habits will ensure that the plant will adapt well to container limitations.
Peonies come in a variety of tones — blush pinks, shell pinks, reds and whites. A delicately rosy fragrance with citrusy hints complement peony luscious beauty.
Notably, peonies did not gain widespread popularity in Europe until ornamental herbaceous peonies were imported from China in the early 1800s. Western peony breeding found its biggest foothold in France and in North America. There are about 30 species of flowering plants (Paeoniaceae), that account for 3 distinct groups of peonies: the herbaceous Eurasian peonies; the Asian tree peonies (AKA Moutan); and the North American peonies. The Chinese peony (Paeonia lactiflora) and the European common peony (Paeonia officinalis) constitute the most common ornamental peonies.
Planting: I chose some deep and relatively wide pots to grow 2 Dr Alexander Fleming, some very-bright pink, fully-double, late-flowering peonies. I used a well-draining organic potting mix with perlite, placing 1 rhizome at the centre of each container. Yup, again! — a rhizome is not exactly a bulb, yet another kind of storage organ in the form of a thickened underground stem connecting roots that grow horizontally.
Thus, we cab plant the “eyes” of the rhizome facing upwards and the roots downwards, with about 5 cm of soil covering them. These “eyes” are actually nodes where new shoots can sprout and grow into new life.
Growing: I placed the pot in a location that receives at least 6 hours of sunlight daily. And, watered moderately. It might take 1 year to 3 years for your peony to bloom abundantly, but the wait is absolutely worth it! We can expect 1-2 flowering stems the first year or no flowering at all. We should not cut the stems the first 2-3 years, to help the underground root establish.
Peony season begins in late April or early May and extends through June. Sadly, peonies flower for exclusively 7-10 days a time.
After bloom: Once the peony flower wilts, we can continue to water and fertilise lightly throughout the growing period. In the fall, we can cut back the yellow foliage. While over the winter months, the ideal solution would be to keep the pots in an insulated garage, preferably near a window. Peony still requires cold temperatures to support their dormancy. - Tuberose: Tuberose produces clusters of white, waxy blooms. We can experience its intoxicating scent after the Sun sets, as it is a night-blooming flower. As a long-time fan of Frédéric Malle’s Carnal Flower by the perfumer Dominique Ropion, I cannot wait for its petals to unfurl.
The Spanish originally brought the Polianthes tuberosae to Europe from their explorations of Mexico back in the 16th century. There exist about 15 species, that are found growing in the wild, except for Polianthes tuberosa L. Additionally, there are 3 subgroups of tuberoses named on the basis of the number of rows of petals they bear: the single type is the most fragrant.
Tuberose deeply sensual, buttery, warm notes are unique and highly sought after in the perfumery world. Tuberose absolute (obtained through the technique of enfleurage) is extremely expensive, with Carnal Flower seemingly employing the highest quantity in the entire industry. Nowadays, this raw material is conveniently sourced from the southern-Indian states of Tamil Nadu and Karnataka, and Egypt.
Planting: It starts with picking up a terracotta pot to fill with a well-draining potting mix that is rich in compost. I planted myself 3 tuberose tubers — as the name tuberose suggests, the flower is born from a tuber, another type of underground stem — in a single pot 5 cm deep 15-20 cm apart. I chose The Pearl tuberose, a white, double flowering variety.
Growing: We need to place our pot in a location where it receives at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight daily. And, regularly water the soil, especially with hotter temperatures. Tuberose flowers 3 to 4 months after planting, generally in July, reaching its acme by August or September.
After bloom: After the flower drops, the leaves continue to photosynthesise and nourish the bulb forward next year's bloom. We can comfortably leave the rhizomes in the pots, prune the foliage, and save the pots in unsealed plastic bags in a cool basement. The plant might still require a little water mid-winter, if the soil seems excessively dry. We cab bring them out the following spring, and go back to a regular watering routine.
Grape hyacynths.
As blooms begin to fade: annuals and perennials
Bulbs are more commonly associated with perennials. Perennials flower year after year, often leading to an increasingly more impressive floral display every year. Examples include tulips, daffodils, hyacinths, and some kinds of allium. On the other hand, annual flower bulbs, such as dahlia, crocus, and gladiolus, complete their entire life cycle within one season, typically setting seed.
By choosing perennials, we not only reduce waste from discarded bulbs each year, but we also allow the plants to mature and establish themselves into the ground.
Notably, many popular annuals, like marigolds and petunias, are propagated from seeds. Seed companies are the main force behind maintaining and supplying seed-based annuals, via open-pollination for non-hybrids, and through controlled pollination processes for hybrids.
While daffodils being perennials, they can produce seeds. The offspring grown from seed may not resemble the hybrid they originate from. In particular, it might inherit a mix of traits from both parent plants, leading to unpredictable — and for some, undesired — variations in flower colour, size, or even growth habit.
The primary method of reproduction for perennials is through division. During the dormant phase (typically fall or winter), farmers carefully dig up mature bulbs/corms/rhizomes/tubers: these will have multiple “eyes”, which can develop into new shoots.
Nonetheless, 2 ancient true perennials, ferns — with either their rhizomes, tubers or fibrous roots — and horsetails (equisetum) — equipped with rhizomes — reproduce through spores. Still, certain irises and peonies, can reproduce through both sexual means (seeds) and vegetative means (division). Yet, similarly to hybrids, choosing seeds may mean producing genetic diversity. Additionally, plants grown from seeds may take several years to reach maturity and flowering size compared to plants produced through division.
Lilies of the Valley.
Our garden zone: plants' chance of surviving
It seems important to give our bulb plants the after-bloom treatment they deserve, to prolong their life and flowering capability. But, what are the USDA hardiness zones everyone refers to?
The key factor affecting the perennial status of freesia and tuberose is climate — notably, neither dahlias nor gladiolus are true perennials in most climates. These plants cannot tolerate the winter frost. In most climates (USDA hardiness zones below zone 8 or 9), freesia and tuberose are best treated as tender bulbs. Like if they were annuals, gardeners lift and store them indoors over winter before replanting in the following spring. While, in warmer climates (Zones 9 and 10), freesia and tuberose can flourish again and again as true perennials, surviving winter outdoors in good condition and emerging from the ground in spring.
Developed by the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA), the Plant Hardiness Zone Map is a tool for gardeners across the United States to select plants suited to their local climate. This map divides the country into 13 zones based on average annual minimum temperatures. Zone 1 represents the coldest regions with the lowest average winter temperatures, while Zone 13 encompasses the warmest areas. Each zone differs by 5.6 degrees Celsius.
The USDA map has inspired similar frameworks in other regions. Unlike the United States with its vast continental climate, Europe necessitates a more nuanced approach to plant hardiness zones.
Several European countries, including Luxembourg and the Netherlands, have adopted a system based on Köppen climate classification. This system categorises climates based on temperature and precipitation patterns, resulting in zones like “Oceanic” or “Mediterranean.”
Regardless of the specific system employed, the core principle remains the same: to provide a framework for gardeners to select plants with a higher likelihood of thriving and surviving the winter in a particular location.
Conceived by Wladimir Köppen (1846-1940) in the early 20th century, the Köppen climate classification system categorises climates into 5 main groups denoted by capital letters: A (Tropical), B (Arid), C (Temperate), D (Continental), and E (Polar). Each main group is further divided by temperature subgroups using lowercase letters. Finally, a third lowercase letter indicates the precipitation pattern.
For instance, Cfb code identifies Luxembourg’s climate: a Temperate Oceanic Climate with warm summers (average temperature exceeding 10°C for at least four months) and uniform precipitation throughout the year. Nonetheless, Luxembourg does experience some continental influences, such as colder winters.
Growing my own spring bulbs from Holland
I have diluted a liquid flower fertiliser enriched with guano, that I used at every watering. I found important to pump the plant in order to increase the chances of blooming. My plants can enjoy long hours of sunlight, but will never be exposed to full Sun given Luxembourg’s prevalent climatic conditions and my apartment orientation. Before the blooming period, using a flower fertiliser can really benefit the plants. Additionally, fertilising can be important after bloom, when replenishing the bulb with all the nutrients it might need to make it to the next season.
I can confirm that depending on the bulb/corm/rhizome/tuber variety, it can take several weeks or even months for sprouts to appear. There is nothing quite nurturing — like seeing (waiting to see, as for now) a flower burst from a small bulb, which came with a scent of mould.
The amaryllis popped up early on, boosting my hope: its green body continues its steady growth. The freesias germinated too: I used to count the sprouts until there were way too many and I lost the count. Now, the stems are healthy but a little too bent towards the window. After a visit to the garden centre, I figured out an effective way to support their development, while containing their energy expenditure.
On the other hand, I have been very nervous about the peonies. I have located the rhizomes, and pulled them up a little from the bottom of the container, decreasing the amount of soil covering them. I eventually noticed some green shoots from both rhizomes with great joy after about 1 month from planting, and helped them see the light. Well, they seem to have appreciated my gesture.
Finally, 1 tuberose rhizome out of 3 sprouted after 3 weeks. I am now “rooting” for the second 2 planties to join in.
Professor Einstein daffodils.
From bulb to flower: a sustainable journey at our window
I ignored that when bulb flowers, for instance tulips or agapanthus, are cut to be sold to supermarkets and florists, the bulbs will have to be replaced and go to compost. This is due to the fact that too much of the green growth is removed to support photosynthesis and re-feed the bulb for the following year. Once you cut a bloom, the bulb will produce an inferior-quality outcome the next year. Growing our own flowers either in pots or in our garden certainly is more sustainable.
I eventually learnt about the importance to buy packaged flower bulbs online that are sustainable over wholesale flower bulbs. It is extremely easy to go to a wholesale flower bulb supplier, who offer very good prices and a wide range of products that ship to your doorstep, selling bulk quantities and having their website rank first. Selecting non-treated, quality bulbs in fact demands some research and is not always obvious.
A great amount of pesticides and fertilisers go into intensive flower cultivation. Many of those poisonous substances end up contaminating the water system, and the skin and the lungs of agricultural workers. Since flowers are not edible, they do not share the regulatory controls of crops. Plus, the carbon footprint of Dutch flowers that are greenhouse grown (in particular, lilies) remain quite high, due to highly automated systems and relatively inefficient heating and lighting, alongside transport (to the UK, as per the case study).
Major distributors praise themselves of offering healthier top size bulbs that are more weather resistant, leading to bigger, more abundant flowers. Their suppliers are not considered against the sustainability of their growing practices. This fact raises some concerns.
Artificial fertilisers and pesticides or plant protection products are heavily employed in cultivation. The result is an impoverished soil, that is actually unable to prevent pests.
Dutch Master daffodils; Bridal Crown daffodils; prunus laurocerasus.
On the other hand, sustainable nurseries use organic fertilisers and implement water conservation techniques. Bulb farms who focus on niche markets and environmentally conscious consumers, prioritise sustainable methods. By consciously choosing bulbs from sustainable farms, we are sending a message that eco-friendly practices matter.
Seek for the Sustainable Suppliers of Horticulture Quality Products, to support the Floriculture Sustainability Initiative (FSI). This initiative prioritises innovation in the bulb production sector, in favour of a transparent production process, shrinking their environmental footprint, fostering innovation and knowledge development, and proactively complying with future EU laws, like the Corporate Sustainability Reporting Directive (CSRD).
The Greenhouse Horticulture and Flower Bulbs Business Unit of Wageningen University & Research (WUR) updated a carbon footprint model for flower bulbs and perennials. They aim to achieve 100% green energy by 2024 via solar panels and sustainable energy purchases. They also plan to move part of the production process to greenhouses, with vertical farming, led lights. This controlled environment will allow to minimise chemical usage and residue leakage. Open soil cultivation in the Bollenstreek region will welcome the clean bulb in its final year. This will not prevent us from paying a visit to Bollenstreek famous tulip fields and taking postcard photos of the landscape.
In terms of sustainable crop protection, organic alternatives are currently being explored. Strict, product quality guidelines are applied. NLG (Natural Living Natural Growing) Holland counts nine growers of sustainable flower bulbs in North Holland.
In this context, John and Johanna Huiberts have been growing premium Dutch bulbs since 2013 and are SKAL certified. To replenish exhausted soil, they suggest plowing via a non-turning plow to maintain the balance in top and bottom layers. These same producers create they own compost out of wheat, rapeseed, oat and clover.
Among the Dutch growers who chose sustainable bulb farming, we can also find Wilbrord Braakman who argues that a healthy soil, rich in micro organisms can maintain a strong defence against plagues. For instance, compost tea can be used as a natural soil enhancer. According to him, the organic way delivers better products to his company.